Join me on my spiritual safari to Uganda and now through Kenya

Safari translates to "journey" in Swahili, one of the native languages to Uganda and Kenya

Sunday, August 29, 2010

Kenya - On the Road to Change

Excitement and enthusiasm filled the Kenyan air on Friday, August 27, 2010, as the official promulgation of the new Kenyan constitution took place (as mentioned in a previous post, we arrived in Kenya on voting day for this constitution). Friday was declared a public holiday as the president, prime minister, and 5 other top officials took fresh oaths of office and swore allegiance to the new constitution, which was 20 years in the making. We watched the events of this historic day televised on the TV with Sach’s family. It was an honor to be in Kenya on this day, as in talking with various natives you could feel their positive energy and excitement around what this day means for their country and their rights.

Saturday morning I attended my first Africa Yoga Project teacher’s practice at Sarakasi Dome. Africa Yoga Project was founded in 2007 by yogi Paige Elenson(www.africayogaproject.org). She arranged for famous yogi, Baron Baptiste, to lead a teacher training for about 40 men and women from the slums. Amazing, right? Baron was just here in July too for a follow up leadership training. I would have loved to be here for that, as the yoga teacher training I went through was influenced by Baron Baptiste. Now the trained teachers guide free yoga classes in various settings around Nairobi – social halls in the slums, prisons, schools, and community centers. The purpose is to “use the transformative power of yoga to empower communities and change lives. By inspiring the global yoga community into active service, AYP delivers effective and innovative programs that foster peace, improve physical, emotion and mental well-being, facilitate self-sufficiency and create opportunities to learn and contribute across the communities of East Africa.”

Saturday mornings used to be a teacher’s practice, but from what I understand people started to bring friends, so now it is open to the public – at times over a 100 people show up to practice!! Now I understand why! The room was filled with vibrant energy as over 50 people practiced the powerful benefits of yoga. We were guided by many of the AYP teachers in a 2 ½ hour round- robin type class and the physical adjustments provided were so strong and amazing. Needless to say I left there feeling very fulfilled. I now know where I will be spending my Saturday mornings and looking forward to volunteering my time with AYP in some capacity. I also plan on joining Moses, the country director, at one of his community classes this Tuesday – I will be sure to tell you all about it.

I am beginning to realize what a small world it is – or at least Nairobi. Before I left Denver, my friend Nate found an article about a young, native Coloradan, Jessica Posner, who co-founded a non-profit, Shining Hope for Communities (http://www.hopetoshine.org), which is based in Kibera (the largest slum in Nairobi, 2nd largest slum in Africa). Jessica’s organization opened the first known free school for girls in Kibera, The Shining Hope Community Center, and soon-to-be open health clinic. Jessica was recently recognized as the nation’s “Top World Changer 25 and Under” by Do Something and VH1 – WOW! I was in contact with Jessica over email before we left for Kenya and have been meaning to be in touch with her since we arrived.

So, where I am going with this whole story? Here I go - I got dropped off at Sarakasi Dome by our trusty cab driver, Mosoti. Class was supposed to start at 930, so Mosoti picked me up at 830, just in case of traffic. Well, I got there in less than 20 minutes, no traffic, so I was early. The side door to the big center just opened up when I arrived so I went in there and sat in the lobby area and started reading a book I brought along. A few minutes later 3 white girls walked in with yoga mats, so they were obviously there for the same reason. They saw me and we started talking. I told them my name, they asked where I was from, I said CO/NJ. One of the girls said, oh I am from Denver. I said is your name Jessica, and sure enough it's Jessica Posner, who I have been meaning to get in contact with. Crazy, right? It was her first time going to this class too, as she recently heard about AYP. Incidences like these prove to me I am on the right path.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Opportunities

This past Monday, Madison and I went to Korogocho, the fourth largest slum in Nairobi. Our friend Purvi put us in contact with Pato (Patrick), one of the highly respected "business leaders," from Korogocho. Madison wants to partner with business leaders from various slums to create distribution networks for 100 gram jars of honey (from his company, Honey Care Africa). After a brief tour of Korogocho’s radio station, an overview of the Korogocho Slum Upgrading Programme (http://www.ksup.org/), and a walk-through of the newly constructed bio-gas public showers and bathrooms, we gathered in the community meeting room, directly above the restrooms powered by bio-gas. I was amazed how quickly Pato was able to organize a meeting with his team, including the local Councilman Steve (for political buy-in), his accounting guy, and four local potential salesmen. Madison did an excellent job presenting this business opportunity. All seemed extremely interested in this opportunity as they can make a profit on each jar (potentially 8 shillings per jar, compared to 1-2 shillings on other products) plus honey has numerous health benefits, which all were well aware of (to convert shillings into dollars you divide by 80). The men are going to work on a business plan while Madison works on a bulk rate sheet for the honey and they will reconvene in a week.

They also brought me to a local center, Light and Hope For the Disabled Children, in the heart of the slums. I was quite impressed by the center, which is only 2 years old, and they are in desperate need of a therapist – yet another sign that we are on the right path. They have a whole room set up with donated therapy equipment and therapeutic activities. Apparently they did have an occupational therapist, but no longer. There was also a small educational classroom set up and another room for younger children. They have approximately 30 children who come on a daily basis, the youngest being 4 years old, with all kinds of diagnoses (autism, cerebral palsy, down syndrome, microcephaly). This center is primarily run by a local mother on a volunteer basis who has a 9 y.o. with cerebral palsy. One of her main goals is to reach out to other families in Korogocho, showing them it's okay to have a child with a disability and there is a place for them to go for an education, therapy, and to socialize/learn with/from other children.

As many of you probably know, it's common for certain cultures here to believe that having a child with a disability is a result of witchcraft and/or a curse. Therefore, they rarely take their child out in public and don’t even consider having them attend school. I would say this center has been pretty darn successful in the two years since its birth as it already attracting 30+ families. So, put Light and Hope For the Disabled Children on my list of projects :) One possibility I exchanged with the founders is that I volunteer my time there a few times a month and teach the parents and teachers on functional, applicable ways to work with the children to promote their development.

I find myself definitely coming from a different place than I was while in Uganda. I have only taken my camera out 1x since being here and that was to take a picture of Sach's house. I feel if the locals of the slums, the girls centres, and poverty stricken areas are to take me seriously I can't be snapping pictures – as I am not here to look, stare, or “tour” the slums, nor am I coming from a place of pity or sympathy. I am here to be of assistance, to offer my skills and my heart in the most appropriate of ways. It is so hard for me to grasp how there are organized “slum tours” in existence. Yes, this may bring some money to the people and environment of the slums, but doesn’t it seem a bit inhumane to tour someone else’s homeland and snap pictures and video of people and their surroundings for their own self serving benefit like it’s a spectacle? Perhaps someone can shed some light on this topic for me.

Reality sets in.......

Today marks the start of our 4th week in Kenya (the longest I have ever been in Africa at one time). It was my first weekday without any planned meetings or places to go. After a hearty workout this morning, I think reality finally hit me. I found myself standing in the kitchen, not quite knowing what to do with myself (as many of you know it's hard for me to do "nothing")- thinking wow – I really don’t have any obligations to tend to right this moment. I no longer have a full-time job, I have no school work to complete for my doctorate, huh, I am “free” to do what I want – holy crap, my checking account isn’t going to get replenished at the end of this month for the first time in over 7 years (panic, panic, panic for a few seconds). Then this wave of relief passed over me, my shoulders relaxed away from my ears, and the corners of my lips turned into a smile – it's all going to be okay (as my husband would say). I have only been here for 3 weeks and I am already involved in various projects and organizations that I resonate with and I have connected with so many amazing people. I truly know we are on the right path and everything will work out one way or another, as it always does, right?

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

First Matatu Ride

I am proud to report I successfully navigated myself around on the matatu system today. The matatu is the fairly regulated public transportation system here in Kenya – thousands of white mini buses/vans that seat 12-14 passengers max and pick up/drop off along various routes. I was told three years ago the matatu system was not as regulated as it is today – way more than 14 passengers hanging out of various doors of the vehicle, stopping and picking up at random stops (probably similar to what I experienced in the Dominican Republic). Yesterday as Stanley (Sach’s driver) drove me to Fairmile School he explained to me which number routes I would take, and pointed out where I would get picked up, where I would switch vans, and where I would get dropped off – so I felt fairly confident in today’s adventure. I left Sach’s house today at 9:00am. Just to make sure I got on the right matatu, John (the house helper who has been with Sach’s family for over 50 years) walked me down to the matatu stop. Within seconds a van marked #23 pulled up and I jumped in. I had to negotiate my way to a seat in the back - my backpack got stuck on a seat – but luckily it was only a matter of seconds before I was in my seat so I didn’t cause too much of a scene. The backpack incident didn’t really matter, as I was aware of the various stares I received anyway– yes, I was the only “white” person on the matatu. A few minutes later I got off the van and waited 10 seconds max and the next matatu pulled up that took me to my final destination. This van was less crowded (I was one of 3 people besides the driver and the money collector) and I appreciated the bumpin’ African reggae music blaring out of the speakers. At exactly 9:10 and only 40 shillings (50 cents) later I was at my final destination. Just to give you some perspective, a taxi to Fairmile costs $6.25 (500 shillings). My future plan for transportation to and from Fairmile seems obvious to me:). A parent of a child dropped me off at the end of my road so I didn’t experience the return trip on the matatu today, but there are many more days to come:).

It is obvious that I stand out here, as I am a minority. Yes, I get stares when I go running, or ride the matatu, or walk along the road to the nearby shopping store, as I am typically the only white person on the side of the road and not in a car. I am getting used to these looks and the “mzungu!” comments (only got called that once today). But I can’t escape the thoughts and feelings that flood my head and body as I am in the midst of these ventures: I feel proud to walk along the road with other Kenyans-as this is their country and when I frequently get a smile or a “how are you?” I take this as a welcoming gesture; I wonder what they think of me; and I wish there wasn’t this obvious, yet unspoken class difference based on the color of your skin. I recognize this is how life is, but it is my intention to approach every person, every situation with respect and in a non judgmental fashion, as we are all just human beings after all, right?

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Are we really in Kenya?

There are times I feel like I am in Kenya and then there are moments when I have to ask myself – am I really in Africa? For example, last Saturday night we enjoyed a sushi dinner at a super hipster Japanese Restaurant in WestGate (a high end shopping mall with many name brand stores – almost felt like I was at the Cherry Creek Mall or Short Hills Mall). We walked in and I just chuckled, turned to Madison and said, “Really, we are in Kenya? “ This place is trendier than a restaurant in Denver. As I sit in the comfort of Sach’s home watching TV on a flat screen the same thoughts run through my head. But then as I glance out the windows and see the metal bars covering the windows and the gated entrance with a guard, it brings me back to realize we are in Kenya. When we leave Sach’s home and drive along the main roads with the many, many Kenyans walking by foot at all hours of the night and day, the children begging for money at our car window, the police with machine guns strapped across their chest controlling traffic, and I am rolling up my car window while clutching my purse for fear of someone reaching into the window and snatching it (yes, it does happen) I am brought back to reality of where we are. I am sure this journey will come with a fair balance of experiencing true Kenyan life and having the necessary comfort tools (hot showers, bed to sleep in, internet access) to sustain us. Tomorrow I am going to use the public transportation system, a matatu, to get to the Fairmile school. It seems like it will be similar to the transportation I used while in the Dominican Republic - I will be sure to keep you all posted:)

Life in Kenya



We are very fortunate to be living with Sach and his family. They have a beautiful home in which they so graciously opened up to us. Pictured above is the entrance to Sach's house and their house. We truly enjoy their company and they have taken us under their wing – treating us as their own children. Sach’s mom is a fabulous cook – it’s hard to resist all of the traditional Indian cuisine – I am sure my waistline will be showing that soon enough:). Madison and I plan on cooking some of our favorite meals for them next week – they have requested some yummy Italian dishes! We don’t want to overstay our welcome with Sach’s family – but I also know it will be tempting to stay here as long as possible – the sense of family, comfort, and safety we get from them is priceless.

Sach has introduced us to many of his friends – who are so welcoming to us and make us feel right at home. I don’t see making friends as being an obstacle – thank goodness! I thought I was going to have a shortage of girlfriends – but I was proven wrong. I think I am making friends with the guards in the neighborhood too as I go on my daily runs. Right now I am doing loops around his neighborhood – so they get to see me a lot – but when Madison runs with me we venture down different paths. Yes, we definitely get lots of looks – those crazy Mzungus “white people” – but also get lots of friendly, warm smiles. I am investigating different gyms – but for now running and yoga seem to be just fine.

The one main obstacle we are faced with right now is how to get around. Madison and I have both been busy with meetings at various places since we arrived. I have been able to use Sach’s driver, Stanley, here and there – but I don’t want to be a nuisance, as I know Stanley’s main priority is Sach and his parents. At this point, I just don’t think I can drive here – with driving on the other side of the road, little to no traffic lights or signs (and if there are lights drivers seem to disregard them – haven’t quite figured that out yet), and with the many pedestrians and bicyclists, walking alongside and across the road – I just don’t think I can do it quite yet and they probably don’t want a Jersey driver on the road either:). Another sign that tells me I am not ready to drive here is when I go for a run and I panic that a car is driving towards me on the wrong side of the road, where in reality they are on the right side of the road. I am hoping to investigate our own driver – as taxi fares are starting to add up.

Last Monday Madison and I came home at separate times – both eager to hear about each other’s day. I have to say I was pretty proud of myself to go about my day’s meetings and adventures without his help (plus it wasn’t a choice since he didn’t have his cell phone set up yet). I negotiated a taxi on my own, met some new people who didn’t know Madison first, and got myself involved in some projects that I knew Madison would be proud of. Monday definitely provided me with a sense of independence and empowerment. Plus, I bet he is relieved to know he doesn’t have to hold my hand every step of the way here either – I got a sense he was proud of me too.

Friday, August 13, 2010

What I will be doing in Kenya -

Since making the decision to move here everything seemed to fall into place, and signs – some obvious, some more obscure- started to present themselves along the way. One of the main ones for me is a colleague where I worked stopped me in the hallway in the beginning of March to ask me if I had been to Africa lately (as he knows I have traveled there before). He mentioned his friend from Kenya was just here in CO – she is a founder of a school for children with special needs in Kenya and comes to the states about once a year for further educational training and new ideas. How could I not take this as a sign? It turns out her school is located 10 minutes away from where we are living in Nairobi – and she is in need of physical therapy volunteers. I have met with the founder, Fern (a very knowledgeable Early Childhood Special Educator), twice already since we arrived. School is out for summer break and will resume in September. I sat in on 2 meetings with staff and parents to discuss their child’s progress and goals for the upcoming school term (a version of an IEP meeting).

The school, Fairmile School, is on a pretty decent sized plot of land with a garden and an old-school style swing set. It is located directly next to one of the slums in Nairobi– this took me by surprise at first, as it was unexpected – but it’s safe and I am approaching everything with open eyes and an open mind. The school consists of 2 primary classrooms, a kitchen area (they try to feed the children primarily a gluten free and vegetarian diet), and an office area with a few computers. There is some equipment (mats, a ball, a wedge) that I will be able to use for therapy – but this is where my creativity will come into play. I will post pictures at some point so you can get a clearer picture of what things look like – a school as we know it, but on a much smaller scale and very, very basic.

There are 20 students enrolled in the school (ranging from 4-16 y.o.) with a range of diagnoses from cerebral palsy to autism to delayed with no diagnosis. On a daily basis I was told 10-12 students arrive (attendance is low because of the $2.50/day cost, transportation to school, and family situations). On Thursdays the children go horseback riding – I am very excited to assist with this and on Tuesday they go to the local Y to use the pool – when it is warm enough. There are 3 teachers, 1 occupational therapist, and occasionally there are occupational therapy interns. I am excited and relieved to have the opportunity to progress my physical therapy career here – as I know I will be continually challenged in this environment.

I plan on volunteering at the school 2-3 days a week. The rest of my time will most likely be filled with volunteering with various Girls Centre’s and the Girl Guides (like Girl Scouts) in Nairobi. From my understanding the girls come from the slums and learn life skills and are trained in some type of vocational skill (dress making, jewelry making, computer skills, hairstyling) that they can take back home with them to earn an income. I know I will be working with the Girls Centre at the Hawkers Market – the girls walk 1-2 hours each way, 6 days a week, for a year – certainly puts things into perspective for me. I will be looking for some creative ideas I can contribute to these girls – so feel free to email me.

Yoga instructors seem to be in high demand here. Perhaps I may find myself teaching yoga to some of the girls groups? I have to commend my hubby on his contacts here – which are of course my friends too now. Many of you have heard me rave about the yoga retreat on the Kenyan south coast that our friends own. Madison and I have been here twice before – a small, private retreat right on the beach with a yoga platform overlooking the ocean – plus delicious, fresh food is served to your liking. Well, this past Monday I received a phone call saying Shaanti (the retreat) was in need of a yoga instructor for some guests. Their regular instructor was out of town. Without much persuasion – Madison and I flew to the coast on Tuesday morning (an hour flight from Nairobi) and now here I am. Who could pass up a trip with paid flight, food, and accommodations? I have been teaching about 2 classes a day – which is great because I am growing my own practice. Yes, I feel a bit spoiled here – but I am sure this journey will come with its not so great days too. Madison left yesterday for Nairobi as he had some business to tend to. That left me at Shaanti all by my lonesome, but some alone time is always good. I was definitely a bit scared at first and had trouble sleeping, waking up to every sound, but I know I am in good hands here and completely safe with the many guards walking around the beach front property. I have become friendly with all of the staff and I am attempting to learn Swahili. Although English is primarily spoken here, Madison and I want to learn Swahili as it will come in handy – plus, we are trying to not stand out so much. Madison is of course picking up on it much faster than I am – learning a new language isn’t as easy as it was when I was younger.

Only the Beginning

Most of you know how this all transpired – if not, if you read my previous blog posts from Uganda you will get a sense of what sparked this journey. Madison is essentially making a dream of mine come true by taking on a job opportunity with a social enterprise, Honey Care Africa – selling beehives to farmers to eventually bring them above the poverty line. While we were visiting friends in Kenya in February, this opportunity presented itself and we both instantly knew from deep in our hearts we had to jump on it. Madison was shocked how easy it was for me to come on board, but then again, he knew this was in my blood as much as it was in his. It took us from February to mid-June to solidify all plans and then we began to tell our families, friends, and co-workers our exciting news. Without fail, Madison and I successfully made the transition out of Denver to Kenya. Now, here we are.

We arrived on August 4th – referendum day for a new Kenyan constitution. I was a bit leery about arriving on this day (we realized it after we booked our tickets) as the last time there was a vote – riots broke out. However, this time, all remained peaceful and the majority of Kenyans were pleased with the vote. The following day was a public holiday so all can relax as the votes are tallied and announced. Why don’t we have a day like this in our country? Everyone we meet comments that we arrived on a very auspicious day – I am taking that as a sign that we made the right decision by moving here.

I think it’s starting to finally settle in that we are here for more than just a mini vacation and that I won’t be immediately returning to my full-time job and life in CO. It will almost be a month since I resigned from my pediatric physical therapy position – but a part of me still feels as though I will be returning to it. I am sure time will help reframe my thinking – as well as when my bank account starts to realize it won’t be replenished with monthly paychecks.

As many of you know we moved our belongings from Denver into a 10x15 storage unit in NJ – everything just about fit. Part of negotiating our Kenyan adventure with my large, close-knit, Italian family was to move back to NJ after we have lived out our dream here. That may be a bit exaggerated, but at least it made telling my family a lot easier as they will have us back there in just a matter of time – something I am sure they were not expecting to see this quickly – but it was always in our plan.

As I start to settle in here, I keep thinking how it was almost too easy to “physically” (not as easy emotionally) pick up and leave the country. Granted we had about 5 months to mentally plan this out, it still makes me feel sort of weird to cut-off all physical ties with Denver (leaving the security of my job and health insurance, our residences, our car, our cell phones, etc). As we start to live our lives here, it’s almost like I am creating a new identity for myself and it feels relieving to not have all of those physical attachments. Of course leaving family and friends was the hardest and most challenging – but knowing we have everyone’s support made this transition a lot less emotionally painful – thank you!